The spices of the Egyptian kitchen: cumin, coriander, the taqleya and dukkah, the secret of the Egyptian taste

Egypt sat on the spice route from early on. In ancient Egypt coriander was known; it is often noted that coriander seeds were found in the tomb of Tutankhamun. Cumin was also known to the ancient Egyptians.

In the Mamluk period Cairo and Alexandria sat in the middle of the spice trade between the East and Europe. To this day Alexandria has a district called «El-Attarin», named after the sellers of spices and herbs. For more on that period read food in Fatimid and Mamluk Cairo.

If one spice stands for Egyptian popular food, it is cumin:

• On ful with oil and lemon.
• In Alexandrian liver with garlic and chilli.
• In lentil soup.
• In the da'a dressing spooned over fried aubergine.
• And in many homes with fish.

Coriander comes two ways in Egyptian cooking:

The taqleya is minced garlic fried in ghee or oil until golden, with dried coriander added. That smell is the smell of an Egyptian home. It goes on:

• Molokhia: its best-known use, and the moment the taqleya meets the molokhia has its own customs and stories, like the «gasp». We told them in molokhia the Egyptian way.
• Okra, stews and some soups.

Dukkah takes its name from «dagg», pounding in a mortar. It is a dry mix of toasted, pounded seeds, most often:

• Toasted sesame.
• Coriander and cumin.
• Salt and pepper.
• Sometimes nuts such as hazelnuts, toasted chickpeas or dried mint.

The traditional Egyptian way is simple: dip bread in olive oil, then in the dukkah. There is no single recipe; every home and region has its own mix.

Note that in many Egyptian homes the word «da'a» also means a dressing of garlic, cumin and vinegar or lemon spooned over fried aubergine or liver, a second use of the word.

• Black pepper: in almost everything.
• Cardamom, mastic and bay leaves: when boiling meat and chicken so the broth smells good.
• Chilli: present, but usually served on the side for each to their taste.
• Fenugreek: as a drink, and in some Upper Egyptian breads.
• Cinnamon: on rice pudding and some sweets.

These are things Egyptian homes have long done that make a difference to the taste:

• Buy cumin and coriander whole and grind small amounts, as their aroma fades quickly after grinding.
• Toast the seeds briefly in a dry pan before grinding, especially for dukkah, until fragrant but not burnt.
• Cumin is best added near the end of cooking or over the finished dish, as on ful and lentils, so its aroma stays clear.
• In the taqleya watch the garlic: if it turns dark it becomes bitter, so keep the heat low and let it just turn golden.
• Store spices in well-closed jars, away from light and heat.

Egyptian cooking lets the ingredient itself be the star: molokhia, meat, rice, vegetables. Spices serve that taste rather than cover it. That is why Egyptian food is loved from the first try, even by people not used to heavy spice.

At Rokn Warda in Al Khobar you can taste this in the molokhia casserole (molokhia in rich broth with the Egyptian garlic-and-coriander taqleya), Alexandrian liver with garlic, hot pepper and Alexandrian spices, charcoal-grilled kofta with spices and herbs, and lentil soup. Order from the menu for delivery in Al Khobar and Dammam.

Read more in Alexandrian liver: the secret of the marinade and Egyptian kebab.